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Restaurant Guide


SAKURA,

231 Wickenden St., Providence, (401) 331-6861.

I'd assumed the place had changed ownership, but no. Not only is Sakura located where the Nippon was three years ago, it is Nippon -- same menu, same boss. The latter name, which means "Japan," was confusing Japanese patrons meeting for a quick saki and nako maki. They mixed it up with the New Japan restaurant-up the street. Well, any ethnic eatery that relies so much on patrons from the old country gets extra points in my book. For all its-charms, Sakura is not a place to have a tea ceremony and contemplate the evanescence of life. About those charms: basically, we're talking fresh ingredients, tasty preparations, and smiling service, with the above caveat. I had to ask for a glass for my BYOB beer, but it came nicely chilled. Per usual, you can check-off sushi or maki from a list of nearly 70 items. Given our druthers, we might have filled up on a selection of those offerings, from sea urchin to Philadelphia maki (Philly cream cheese and smoked salmon on rice, rolled and sliced).

Full review.









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